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  1. #11
    Habitual Avatar de Tom Sawyer
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    ¡Exacto! Se me había olvidado hablar del calzado, gracias por recordármelo.

    Efectivamente, el penny loafer es la estrella. Otros usados son los derbies marrones con picado, a ser posible en cordovan, y en verano los zapatos blancos. A ver si saco un rato para meter un punto de calzado en el primer post, gracias de nuevo por la idea.

  2. #12
    Habitual Avatar de Óliver
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    Gran aportación.

    A decir verdad, fue lo que me hizo inclinarme por la moda clásica.

  3. #13
    Senior Avatar de vinzenzo
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    Un hilo muy interesante.

  4. #14
    Habitual Avatar de Mercurio
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    03 oct, 15
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    Cita Iniciado por JamesTM Ver mensaje
    Tom, tu lo sabras mejor que yo, pero no es el penny loafer 'EL zapato' IVY? Creo que cogierone se nombre porque los estudiantes de las IVY usaban el antifaz para guardar un centavo en ellos.
    Sin ninguna duda, el penny loafer es uno de los emblemas del "estilo" y tiene mucho que ver con la actitud, si se quiere irreverente y en contra de lo tradicional que caracteriza el Ivy League:



    (Interesante ver el precio en la época de unos cordovan)


    "From the moment it appeared the penny loafer was an “instant classic” for wearers of the Ivy League Look, according to Charlie Davidson, 86-year-old proprietor of The Andover Shop in Harvard Square. Yet how do we explain the shoe’s overnight success, when so many shoes had come before and so many more would come later?

    For a genre of clothing that was slow to develop, that is characterized by its conservatism and supposed resistance to fads, this love-at-first-sight seems odd. Stranger still, the penny loafer was no temporary trend like the raccoon coat of the ’20s or the buckle-back chino of the mid-‘50s. Its place in the genre of clothing called the Ivy League Look remains to this day. It literally was an instant classic, embraced wholeheartedly and never relinquished.

    Those Yalies who first donned the penny loafer in the late ’30s must have seen something special in the shoe, an inherent attractiveness and a harmony with the clothes they got next door at J. Press. “Casual slip-on shoes of the moccasin type are by far the most popular with students,” syndicated fashion columnist Bert Bacharach would later write in his 1955 book “Right Dress,” suggesting it was the penny loafer’s casualness of design — moccasin-style with no brogueing, laces, tassels, wings, nor anything else associated with a business shoe — that accounted for its instant appeal".

    http://www.ivy-style.com/the-rise-an...ague-look.html

  5. #15
    Habitual Avatar de PVP
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    Muy buen aporte, me gusta.

    Enviado desde mi D2303 mediante Tapatalk
    He fallado una y otra y otra vez en mi vida y es por eso por lo que tengo éxito. (M.J)
    Never give in. Never give in. Never, never, never, never—in nothing, great or small, large or petty—never give in (W.S.Ch)

  6. #16
    17+1 Avatar de Armando
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    Un penny en shell cordovan a 7$!!!
    Dime cómo vistes y te diré quién eres

  7. #17
    Habitual Avatar de Mercurio
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    El Ivy League, como bien lo explicó Tom Sawyer al comienzo de este hilo, se refiere al conjunto de las universidades mas prestigiosas del Este de los Estados Unidos. Sin embargo, realmente se refiere a una liga alrededor de los juegos inter-universitarios, "a collegiate athletic conference", a los que esas instituciones pertenecían. A pesar de que la liga se desarrolló durante los años entre la primera y segunda guerra mundial, el término Ivy League apareció mas tarde, cuando en 1954 fue reconocido oficialmente por la "National Collegiate Athletic Association’s División".

    Casi un siglo antes, los inmigrantes que se asentaron en la zona conocida como "New England" trajeron consigo lo que se ha considerado el típico deporte "prep": el remo. El enfrentamiento de los equipos de Harvard y Yale se convirtió rápidamente en la competencia ínter-universitaria por excelencia.




    Con la invención del Basketball en Canadá y la popularidad del fútbol americano, hubo necesidad de crear una organización que se encargara de la organización de los juegos. Hoy en día la denominación Ivy League se refiere no solo a los juegos: es sinónimo de exclusividad, selectividad y aprendizaje avanzado, considerada globalmente como algunas de mejores instituciones de educación superior en el mundo.

    Ahora bien, el Ivy Style empezó a desarrollarse durante los años 50 del siglo pasado, alrededor de las universidades que conformaban la liga. Así como el estilo "prep" influenció a muchos diseñadores, el "ivy" tomó gran parte del crédito al punto de convertirse en sinónimo de los estilos "prep" y "trad":

    "
    Blended over the years, Ivy style was born out of an interest in appearing more elegant and well dressed than the casual undertones of the prep culture. While prep style was reserved for garden parties, sailing, and casual affairs, Ivy style was for more formal, casual occasions such as attending class at Harvard Law, going on a late dinner date with the young lady you met at the Square or an event your parents insisted you attend with them at the country club after giving you a stern warning to leave the boat shoes and anchor bracelets at home".



    El Ivy Style se convirtió en un diferenciador social, que identificaba a los estudiantes de las universidades que formaban la liga de aquellos de otras instituciones:

    "The style was a direct reflection of college life at the campuses only the most affluent and well-versed students could attend. It separated the men of Harvard and Yale from the common youth at other colleges, and especially in a town like Cambridge where there are more colleges than shopping malls, the Ivy style became a way to instantly recognize a member of your social circle. That is until the style caught on and began to rise in popularity amongst all young men and women throughout the Northeastern United States"
    .

    Inicialmente el Ivy Style se trataba de dos cosas: la primera, muy elitista, era mostrarse a si mismo, a través su ropa, como miembro de la elite de las universidades del mundo y "dressing down" la forma de vestir de las figuras de autoridad, como la que utilizarían sus padres: "It’s really that simple. Slightly more formal, yet still relatively casual".






    Brooks Brothers tuvo una enorme influencia en el "estilo", al convertirse en un importante proveedor de sus prendas:

    "While Brooks Brothers, originator of the Ivy League Look’s ingredients, was based in New York, New Haven is the top candidate for Ivy’s spiritual home. In a 2004 article entitled “The Yale Man,” the New York Times writes, “‘Natural shoulder’ was what men’s magazines called the Yale look, and for decades the clothing stores near campus at Elm and York Streets in New Haven were the natural-shoulder capital of the universe.”

    Style setting also thrived in New Haven. “Students and their professors enunciated a new style,” says Press, “with their dirty white bucks, horn rimmed glasses, Owl Shop pipes, raccoon coats, J. Press snap brim hats, stuff that was too informal and sporty for Brooks. Big difference between city and campus wear and Brooks pushed the former, the rest the latter.”

    Finally there was the issue of price: “Perhaps most important issue for the proliferation of Ivy,” says Press, “Brooks was too expensive. J. Press and competitors adapted to the more restricted allowances of the campus population and worked below Brooks price points.”



    "Christian Chensvold of Ivy-Style.com makes the perfect analogy. He says, “In 1964, when a spirited girl meets a handsome, reserved, all-American, clean-cut kind of guy who gets his clothing at Brooks Brothers, and simultaneously finds herself both attracted and repelled by him, she teasingly calls him ‘Ivy League.’”
    “And in 1970”, he says, “after the fall of the Ivy League Look when this same spirited girl meets the same all-American guy, she mockingly calls him ‘preppy.’”
    “So you see”, remarks Chensvold, “the clothing is essentially the same. It’s just how women referred to the clothing — and the men who wore it.”

    Today, the only difference come down to semantics. True Ivy Leaguers will opt for penny loafers, Preps will choose boat shoes. A Prep will wear pants and shoes without socks. Conversely, Ivy Leaguers will only do so in the heat of summer. A Prep will almost never wear a suit and usually opt for a navy blazer instead. An Ivy Leaguer – while he loves the blazer – will still wear a suit almost half of the time.

    When it comes to Prep, it’s about convenience, comfort and then style. For the Ivy Leaguer, it’s about style followed by comfort and then convenience. A Prep will throw on the first polo shirt he finds in his closet and pair it with GTH pants. An Ivy Leaguer will take the time to put it under a cricket sweater and wear linen pants in eggshell. When it comes to sports and lifestyle, both Prep and Ivy styles intertwine completely: Polo, tennis and golf remain favorites".



    • The Ivy League Look was as much about styling as the ingredients. And while the ingredients were relatively fixed and admitted new items slowly, the styling came from the campus and was always in a state of flux.

    • It was the casual nature of the college environment and the importance of dressing down that led men in the 1930s to prefer rougher, casual fabrics — oxford cloth shirts, brushed Shetland sweaters, Harris Tweed jackets, flannel trousers — that has been the standard of good, understated taste for men on the East Coast ever since.

    • The Ivy League Look included clothes for every occasion, from resort to formalwear, from city to country. However, the country element influenced the city far more than the other way around, and remains the most lasting influence of the genre.

    • The Ivy League Look can be said to go through the stages of birth, maturity and decline, corresponding to specific points on a timeline.



    • Once the look in its original, purist form ceased to be fashionable on campus, it ceased to be fashionable in society as a whole.


    Hoy en día el "Ivy Style", ha evolucionado como evolucionan las sociedades y en gran medida, perdió su vigencia. Sin embargo, de su legado apareció una nueva vertiente, lo que hoy se conoce como "Preppy", que será tema para otro post.

    "The term “Ivy League Look” came into popularity in the ’50s, perhaps entering the popular lexicon as the result of LIFE Magazine’s 1954 story “The Ivy Look Heads Across US.” After 1967, once the clothes ceased to be fashionable, the term certainly became archaic.

    Fortunately a new word — for the broader culture — arrived at at just the right time to describe the latest version of the youthful Northeastern upper-middle-class look. “Preppy,” which entered the popular vocabulary in 1970 via the hit film “Love Story,” had a fresh ring to it."

    Fuentes:
    http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/ivy-style-primer/
    http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/take-ivy/
    http://www.ivy-style.com/the-rise-an...ague-look.html
    Última edición por Mercurio; 26/02/2016 a las 07:41

  8. #18
    Habitual Avatar de tonicab
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    30 oct, 15
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    A mi de ese estilo me gustan dos webs (curiosamente son pareja ambos):

    http://www.classygirlswearpearls.com/

    http://secure.kieljamespatrick.com/


    Curiosamente me gusta más la forma de vestir así de chicas que en chicos que lo veo mezcla entre clásico y pijo, pero en chica me encanta.

  9. #19
    Habitual Avatar de Sibarita
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    09 mar, 14
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    Buena aportación Tom, no tenía ni idea de este estilo.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    La sencillez es deseable, la simpleza no.

  10. #20
    Habitual Avatar de Mercurio
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    ¿Qué es Preppy?

    El término se deriva de las "preparatory schools" donde los jóvenes se preparaban para el ingreso a las universidades de la clase alta de los Estados Unidos. Usualmente está asociado con las universidades de la Ivy League, explicado antes, puesto que la intensión de asistir a estas escuelas era poder ser admitido en una de esas instituciones:

    Preparatory > Prep > Preppy

    Prep o Preppy se convirtió en una expresión coloquial que se refiere a la sub-cultura que se identifica con un conjunto de características relacionadas no solo con el vestir, sino su estilo de vida, vocabulario y maneras asociadas a un nivel educativo y económico. Creo que es lo que España llaman "pijo", palabra que no se usa en Latinoamérica.

    Desde la perspectiva del "estilo", Lisa Birnbach escribió en 1980 el "Manual Oficial Preppy" (Oficial Preppy Handbook) que analiza con humor las características del mismo. El siguiente decálogo son el "must have" para un "preppy style":





    1. Chinos. Focus on them and forget about jeans (preferiblemente).They’re OK in classic khaki and navy, but you can take the concept further if you opt for red, bold greens/blues or yellow. Extra bright, unusual colours or even neon shades are the statement, ‘extra mile’ alternatives that will set you apart.




    2. Polo Shirts. Mostly those featuring prestigious branding (usually a stylised animal). They also come with random numbers, references to polo (the sport), or in thicker, long-sleeved rugby tops.




    3. Navy Blazers. Often complete with brass buttons and embroidered crests. They’ll dress anything up, but remain relaxed and easy to wear. From shorts to tailored trousers, they go with anything. To summarise: until you get the navy blazer, you don’t have the look sorted.




    4. Sweatshirts. The casual sportswear alternative to your classic crew neck jumpers. Typical ‘jock’ uniform. Wear it as a t-shirt with nothing underneath or over an Oxford shirt to make it more modern.




    5. Brogues/Penny Loafers. Go for rich browns or oxblood if you’re doing full-on trad. Thick soles, printed leather and contrast-laced versions are available if you feel like making more of a statement. They can both be worn sockless with turned up or slightly shorter trousers during spring/summer.




    6. Tweed Tailoring. Traditional Edwardian leisure attire and signifier of English outdoors elegance. Today, the association is the same, and this British speciality finishes off a preppy getup with class. If the fit is right (slim but not restrictive), your tweed will look sharp while remaining comfortable and practical to wear, particularly during autumn/winter.




    7. Boat Shoes. Wear during summer, preferably sockless, although many tend to combine with bright socks in winter too.



    8. Casual Ties. Diagonally striped or with small embroidery; woollen or knitted; bow or neck – no matter what style you go for, they should be worn in a smart-casual manner with chinos, sports coats, shirts and jumpers/sweatshirts.


    9. Cricket Jumpers. The classic white/cream, deep V-style or simplified versions thereof. Even if you don’t know the rules of the game, give them a go.



    10. Belts. Woven, elastic or vegetable-tanned leather belts, complete with brass buckles, sometimes lined in silk – the belt is possibly the most imaginative accessory in the prep world. Needless to say, we’re not talking studs or anything in widths lower than 25mm or higher than 35mm.



    The Dos & Don’ts Of Preppy

    If anyone can do it, you have to do it differently. You don’t want to end up looking like a catalogue page. We strongly encourage you to find spectacles that set you apart, a watch that offsets your attire, an unusual scarf – basically anything you can think of that doesn’t make you disappear in the crowd (we’ve already said it, and will repeat: this look is easy to emulate).



    Fake vintage is bad. Keep clear of off-the-rack, pre-aged leathers or metals, distressed chinos and canvas bags. Explore your nearest vintage shop or browse eBay and find yourself a unique piece. You don’t want to hit the pub and bump into another chap rocking the same khakis with the exact same amended hole on the knee. This rules extends to diamante (costume) cuff links, fake watches and family crest rings.

    Be the class rebel. Such a conformist dress code must have its rule breaking accents. Ever considered cutting off the collar of your polo/rugby top and turning it into a Henley? Likewise, changing the buttons on your blazer/chinos or switching the laces on your shoes are easy alterations that anyone can make.


    You have to splurge on a certain level of quality, so beware of budget alternatives. For instance, cheap-looking bright green chinos will jar with an authentic tweed jacket.

    Should I pop my polo shirt collar? You can, if you’re on holiday, on a yacht, desperately trying to avoid burning your neck. Otherwise, your collar should be down, buddy.

    Don’t ever try to get into character just because you bought the clothes. Dressing the dream is one thing. Don’t let the look take over your personality with fake public school accents, tasting drinks you don’t like or sneering at your mates who stuck with their jeans and three-for-two deal shirts.

    Don’t EVER wear a sweatshirt or a t-shirt from a school you didn’t go to. You’ll get asked about it immediately and embarrass yourself. This rules extends to crests, coats of arms, mugs, bumper stickers and fridge magnets.

    Be coherent. Don’t adopt sailing attire if you can’t swim, don’t sport a polo player on a horse logo larger than 2cm-high if you feel queasy with the smell of stables, and don’t try to pull off a hunting jacket if you’re a veggie.

    Prioritise functionality. You’ll find these casual clothes are typically made from standard materials like heavyweight cotton and wool. This means that despite the high price tags, they aren’t outrageously expensive items of clothing to invest in, because they’re designed to perform and built to last. Think twice before opting for overly-fine wool, delicate suede or camel hair.



    Need to justify the style? To quote Ms. Birnbach: “Prep clothes are sensible: rain clothes keep you dry; winter clothes keep you warm; collars are buttoned down so they don’t flap in your face when you’re playing polo. Layering is a natural response to varying weather conditions.” You see – practical AND stylish.





    El estilo Preppy mueve muchísimo dinero, al fin de cuentas, tiene un alcance global. Por lo mismo, son muchas las empresas que atienden este gigantesco mercado, con prendas que cambian rápidamente de una temporada a la otra pero manteniendo el "espíritu" del mismo. A continuación, las empresas mas preppies:
    (según: https://www.jackthreads.com/jtedit/2...msy-told-us-to)




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